This part of Naples, which is part of the largest historic center in Europe, was a temporary camp (or at least that's what was thought) where the troops of the Spanish king were housed during the period of Spanish domination. For this very reason, the urban layout was designed with an intricate maze of narrow alleyways, nestled between tall multi-story buildings, divided into small apartments that were originally little more than dormitories. This particularly "enclosed" environment was once a fertile ground for criminal activity, and that is why the Spanish Quarters were considered the most infamous neighborhood in Naples, populated by shady characters and rebellious youths. But that is only the past. Today, the Spanish Quarters (which include Montecalvario, Pellino, and San Ferdinando) are experiencing a period of revival. The beauty of the 18th and 19th-century palaces, illuminated by the splendid southern sun, is enchanting, but to fully experience the Spanish Quarters, you must look down, that is, to the local bars, shops, and artisan activities that can be found at street level.